The "Magic" hour, the gear needed as well as some tips
I think this article has been done to death but there is another angle to this article which few people have ever brought up.
That the magic hour is not really a fixed value of time that is consistent with every country in the world. Each country has it’s own Magic hour as well as it’s own conditions which one must follow in order to make full use of it.
For example I have lived in Penang, and now I am in KL. I can honestly tell you that the magic hour for these places varies so anyone who says its a fixed specific hour is saying it relative to where they usually take their photos.
First let me state this, it is very hard to take sunsets or sunrise in Malaysia why? Because we hardly ever have a clear blue sky unlike countries found in the Northern or Southern hemisphere (there is also an exception to this such as developing countries like China where the skyline is rarely seen anymore caused due to haze and pollution caused by industrial development but for argument’s sake we will say that generally countries found in those regions have a better chance of clear skies). So whenever we do get a blue clear sky, you will see me take the day off from work and go out and just to have fun with my photography.
Why is clear sky important? Isn’t obvious? The reason is so the light from the sun as it rises over the horizon can actually be seen instead of being filtered through cloud or haze turning its golden rays into dull Grey. Which makes everything look like crap. Though there are some possibilities of turning this event to your advantage but I’ll save that topic for another day.
Here is an example of when the sky is just right in Malaysia for a great sunrise.
So…….it has finally been confirmed, the d700!
It has finally been confirmed! The D700, the smaller FX format camera, which is the worse kept secret I have ever seen (aside from the obvious blunder of Malaysia’s murder cover up attempts by Malaysian politicians).
- 12 megapixels? wow! I’ve only been shooting 6 megapixel even with the Fujifilm s5 pro.
- Slower frame rate? 5 fps. The s5 pro has 1.5 fps only and I’ve lived nicely with it.
- Slightly bigger viewfinder.
- sensor cleaning feature? Just when I finally got over my sensor dust phobia ?!
In either case, it will be interesting to see how they price this cam. If they want to contend with 5D and it’s probable successor the 5DII.
None of my concern what canon ups with! I just want to take landscape photos!
A comparison of the D700 to the D3.
Rumors….. ? the Next Nikon FX cam?
I have recently received some information that tells me the next Nikon FX cam is going to be called the D700? Hmmm rather odd considering people were expecting it to be called D10 or D90.
From what I gather it seems to be using the same 51 AF points as well as the CAM3500FX AF sensor which is the same as Nikon D3.
The viewfinder will be as big as D3′s (DUH!).
Megapixel is set at 12.1.
And it seems to be compatible with D300′s battery grip the MB-D10.
Is this the D700?
I’ll put this as 50/50. So until then pleasant dreams
Camera test and tricks
About a week or so ago I met up with Albert Ng where we had lunch and talked about camera stuff.
I had my first opportunity with a Sony @ 700 with fisheye lens attached. I must say, its a well designed camera
Fujifilm Fortia SP 50
“Now we are soooo cooking with gas here!!!!”
That is what I think whenever I load a roll of Fortia SP. Rated to be used at ISO 50 but fujifilm recommends to be rated at ISO64 (I never tried it at that yet). I first decided to try out this film after my supply of color slide film ran out and I saw that Shashinki was selling them in packs of 5 for Rm250, that means Rm50 for a single roll! Pretty steep but after using it so many times I think it’s worth for me, the only draw back is that this film is only available for the Japanese market and is only produced in limited quantity per year and it seems to have a short shelf life (with my batch expiring this August 2008 when I bought it in August 2007, I had thought this was because I had bought an old stock but when I went to Japan, all the Fortia SP were marked to expire on August 2008).
Fujifilm Provia 100F
Fujifilm Velvia 100
This is my second time using this film, the shots from my first rolls were only so so. You can see some of the shots from my Japan trip which doesn’t actually register steller on the radar.
ilford Delta 100
Well after fixing a major problem that was hindering me from scanning film, I then decided to rescan most of my film shots since all the ones I had before the problem was crap.
Tip on using film scanner
Here is a tip for those scanning film using flatbed scanners, I had originally scanned in a lot of photos from film using my flatbed scanner but after scanning them all in, I then realized they were covered with a lot of dust specs! I thought that my Nikon f4s internals were dusty so I decided to clean the internal with a blower. Let me tell you this, this is not a digital camera so this method does not help much! Although it doesn’t hurt to give the internal a good blast of air to clean it once in a while but this was not the problem affecting my photos.
But then I didn’t think it would solve my problem, I then thought another suspect, perhaps the film themselves were dirty, I check….nope, they were all clean. Then another thought came to me, the dust looked like those you would see on the sensor of a digital camera. It then occurred to me that the scanner glass as well as light surface could be dirty themselves. Sure enough the surface were covered with dust. So a little elbow grease and lots of glass cleaner, it was good as new. I then conducted an experience and sure enough, 95% of the dust specs were gone!
So I then decided to rescan all the film that were affected by this problem (8 rolls +), I would work like this, everytime I load in a strip of film, I would check the surface of the scanner for dust specs and then clean them off if I find any. While a lot of work, but it was well worth it.
So until then pleasant dreams~~!
Nikon 50mm f/1.2
Even though I’ve owned this lens for a while now but I’m still learning how to use it. It’s that hard to use but then it was the same with my 85mm f/1.8 as well.
So I hope to learn to eventually master this lens, well today I decided to give it a spin on my s5 pro and decided to go nuts using f/1.2 which is very wide. Here is a test shot I did with it.
Here it is at f/1.2. As you can see, at f/1.2 the plane of focus is VERY thin already with this lens.
While I have the option of using it at f/1.2 I would recommend against it as the point of sharp focus is paper thin.
Here it’s next at f/2.8. I would suggest just going down 1.4. Any further does not make the bokeh better but makes it harder to keep what you want int the plane of focus here.
More shots from the long range sigma (70-200mm)
After using the Sigma for so long, I am still impressed by its performance although I have notice some of its evident weakeness especially at 200mm as it becomes very soft when the aperture is opened all the way to f/2.8 (closing it down to f/4.5 seems to fix the problem).
Here are some shoots from it
I also realized that doing post-process sharpening on pictures taken from Fujifilm S5 pro where the image setting has been adjusted down to 6MP or “m” on the camera instead of “L” are a lot better then post-process sharpening on 12MP or “L” JPEGs. As the sharpening does not introduce a lot sharpening artifacts, in fact it’s almost nil.
So until then pleasant dreams~!
Canoscan 8800F
- Since I decided to get serious with film every since I developed those fortia in Japan, I knew I needed a good scanner to scan them in.
- I had a lot of spare cash to burn on my final day in Japan and this was cheap and GOOD!
I could have gotten the Nikon scanner Coolscan V ED but the voltage was fixed to 100~120V while the canoscan 8800f has a power brick that can be swapped out for another power brick that is compatible with the voltage here (if I can find it so for now I just use a step-down adapter as Malaysian voltage is 220~240V)
Setup was somewhat painless as I had to get all the English drivers and programs (I’m still missing the english version of the scangear driver and that photo editing program which I only have in Japanese but still works as language does not hamper function except when trying to understand it is doing) but once I had it setup, usage was simple.
When you want to scan film,
- First simply mount either the mounted film or strips or film onto the provided film mount.
- Take of the white surface thing on the lid of the scanner.
- Place the mounted film on the scanner glass while making sure it lines up with the provided guide lines.
- Select the scanning option
- Then Scan
- Save the scan images and Viola! your pics are ready!
It’s a bit bulky but I don’t give a rat’s ass! The price is also VERY good about Rm900++ while here in Malaysia it sold for Rm2600++ and that is if you can find it!!!
So far most of the new film pics you see in my flickr account are scanned in using this new baby of mine, while I wouldn’t say the scanner does the slides justice but it’s good enough for my needs.
With that concludes my gear review so until then pleasant dreams~~
I love Fujifilm Fortia SP!
Every since I started to use film I have tried a lot of the fujifilm stuff (no Kodak yet) so far Fortia ranks as my favorite film to use as the colors way cool!
1.Fujifilm Fortia SP
2.Fujifilm Velvia 100
3.Fujifilm Velvia 100F
But that’s for landscape only, for people I prefer Fujifilm Provia 100F. I think I’ll try out Kodak next, here are some shots from Fortia!
Nikon F4s MB-20
This is actually a following to my previous gear review for the F4s which you can find here.
Nikon F4s
O
AKA the camera you want to have when you’re in a war zone and you don’t have anything to use as body armor!
I managed to snag this weapon for what I think was a good price. Hopefully I don’t ever find out if it more than it was worth.
I have been using this cam for a week or 2 already and I tell you this, the matrix metering is only so-so. So do not expect matrix metering like those found on today’s DSLR. This I believe is actually the prototype for matrix metering. Although it can be used with ais lens.
Aside from this, this is also the last Nikkor that offered a 100% viewfinder, subsequent models started to reduce the viewfinder percentage with the F5 model.
This also consider the final fusion of electronic components along with manual knobs and control before they went all electronic with F5.
Why I got this? Well after I started using fm2n, I heard many good things about this, so I took the plunge and got this. I didn’t when another deal would come by this good.
Here is my first observation about the Nikon F4″S”
- Controls are good and durable
- It’s heavy
- Body is tough like nails!
- It’s heavy
- Focus speed is slow but good.
- Matrix metering seems a bit whacked which I can conclude as it’s the first one used by Nikon, it seems to be stingy on the shutter speed. I usually shoot at anything above 1/60 and open the aperture further if I need more light but with any of the program modes or aperture mode, the camera seems to rather risk getting a blur picture rather then a sharp one which is a bit underexposed.
- Good points, the design is REALLY modular, if I could find the parts I can actually swap out a lot of the components to suit my needs. Say viewfinder, battery system can be also swapped out (with either more power, bigger size or less power smaller size).
- Did I mentioned that it’s heavy? It’s sooo heavy in it’s default F4s form. My Fujifilm s5 pro with the MB-200 using alkaline batteries with my Nikkor 17-35mm mounted would be lighter then it! >_<
Note there is a solution to the weight problem, by getting the MB-20 attachment (the Nikon F4s is equipped with the MB-21, replacing this battery grip with the MB-20, converts the Nikon F4s to the Nikon F4, they should have done that in the first place and instead made the MB-20 an optional purchase!) which dramatically reduces the size as well as the weight of the camera. Although it shorten battery life as there would only be 4 batteries instead of 6 then, but hell that thing is heavy!
Aside from the weight, this camera has enough good points to make it a worth while purchase if you can get at a price and condition you like. I’ll update later with some photos once I get them back from the lab.
I’ll have to hand it to Nikon for one thing though, they really looked forward in their design, while the focus speed on this camera won’t break any records for speed and sound but Nikon had actually included the connections that would allow an AFS lens to be mounted and use it!
I tried it with a Nikkor 70-200mm VR/Nikkor 17-35 AF-S as well as a Sigma 70-200mm HSM and they all work perfectly! Even though AF-S/HSM lens only became available a few years later after the Nikon F4s was released! The only thing that does not work is VR, I confirmed this with the Nikkor 70-200mm VR lens. So what do I have here? A camera that works with a huge catalog of lens except no VR
Though for G lens, you can only use program mode and shutter mode as there is no way to manipulate the aperture without an aperture ring.
If you want an even more extensive detail article on this camera, take a look here and an FAQ here
Wow! Two post in one day, I must be damn bored at work! Anyway, pleasant dream!
Nikkor 50mm F/1.8 D
One of my best lens and has always been part of my arsenal of lenses. It’s consider the cheapest lens in whole Nikkor line (when bought new of course). It’s priced at about USD100 (some places can even offer less if you know where to look).
Originally the 50mm was used as the default focal lens for old film cameras as it supposedly mimics the human eye (I disagree, the human eye is wider then this Update: Shortly after making this post, a friend informed me it does match the human eye but only for film and for ONE human eye, not both which would indeed make the human vision wider then 50mm. Thanks les!!) but on this digital, this lens goes to about 75mm which is still consider a fantastic focal length lens especially for portraits.
Unfortunately many assume that simply using this lens would give them good photos, WRONG! This lens is nothing more then a tool and only when used correctly can it HELP you get the pics, not create them.
Nikon AF-S 17-35 f/2.8D aka, "how to make my wallet lose weight"
What can I say? this lens is fantastic! While it cost me a bundle and half of my soul but damn worth it!
I originally had a Tamron A16 and a Tamron SP90 but recently I decide to bite the bullet and sell off those 2 to help me finance my purchase of this legendary gold ring lens.
I managed to get it at RM4,900 brand new from Japan while shops were selling it at RM5,900 and even the online shop I bought it from has increased the price to RM5,100. I had purchase this lens before everyone started to buy it in anticipation of the new Nikon D3.
The benefit of this lens over Nikon 17-55mm is that is a full frame lens and can be used on both film and digital sensor (after digital crop factor of 1.5x).
Sigma 70-200mm F2.8 EX DG/HSM
What is the first brand you think of when people say 70-200mm? Nikon? Canon?
What about Tamron? Pentax? Olympus? or even Sigma? Most people regard the first 2 as being the best lens maker on the market.
No doubt this is due to the quality of their product but such thing comes at an incredibly high price.
Unless you have the pockets of money that can rival most Silicon valley tycoons, you’ll most likely will be looking at what are called the “third party” lens makers. Namely Sigma and Tamron.
I honestly tell you now, if you have the cash, go for the high end stuff. If you don’t then the 3rd party lens like this 70-200mm from sigma is also a good bargain, it has almost all the features as well as built of the Nikkor 70-200mm f2.8 VR. The only drawback of this lens is the lack of VR/IS which is worth its weight in gold!
The only advantage this lens has over the Nikkor or canon version aside from the price is the macro range(no, you cannot do life size 1:1 macro). This feature instead allows you to focus on subject closer then the Nikkor or Canon could.
But again, the main point of buying this lens over the Nikkor or Canon version is the price and the macro range is very under use here as this lens is meant for long range. So if you really want a good 70-200mm and can do well without the VR/IS feature (such as using it mostly on a tripod/monopod) then by all means, this is a good lens.
Some would argue that the colors from this lens always seems to give an orange cast to photos taken with it. So far I have not seen anything to this case, if someone would like to correct me then by all means drop me an email with proof and I’ll gladly amend my review.
Also for people who are first time using this lens or any lens with this time of specs, I offer you some tips to help you get use to this type of lens .
- If there is definitely enough light in the photo, don’t bother shooting at wide apertures(close it down to f4 or f5.6) and instead shoot at shutter speed 1/400 as these type of lens are heavy and a fast shutter speed should help you get a good sharp photo but if you have it on a tripod or monopod, in which case, go wild on the settings then!
- If the scene is not so brightly lit, then in that case, open the aperture all the way! If its still not enough, then put on a flash unit) especially at night, although be warned adding on the flash it seriously going to make the whole camera damn heavy!
- If you find that its heavy to carry around always, use the included lens holder bag as a holster of sort for both your camera and lens along with the hood.
Now note that Sigma lens are all covered in weird coating which seems to help reduce heat from sunlight, as well as provide a better grip. This coating comes off with time so don’t be alarm if you notice that it starts to peel off.
On a lighter note, if you are planning to buy a second hand version, you can use the fact of how much the coating as peeled off to judge how old as well determine its overall condition to help make a decision on buying it. Though lens should not be judge on such metric entirely, if you don’t give a rats about grip (like me as I wear training gloves to hold my camera), then judge by how good are the optics instead.
I won’t be including any photos here for this gear review as I’ve taken a lot of pics using this lens so you can check out my gallery to see some example! Anyway pleasant dreams!
Fujifilm S5 pro
Alright here it is! ;D
Released early this year, the Fujifilm S5 Pro is Fujifilm’s latest product in its lines of DSLR cameras. While not having as big a pie as Nikon or Canon in the DSLR market for now due to “less the steller marketing”, it has managed to capture a significant yet important market segment namely the studio, wedding as well as landscape shooter market segment with its S1, S2, and S3 originally. The reason for such cultist success among such specific segment is due in fact to the DSLR special sensor which is especially designed to be able to capture the a good chunk of the dynamic range.
Sherlyn Chew and Sigma 70-200mm HSM macro
Well as promise here is my entry explaining the background about this photo. One of my frequent models that I work with.
This shoot was called because her home village was being promoted as a tourist location in Penang, Malaysia.
** Note: I grab all this information from their website.
Some information about my village:
Today, Penang in 21st century, we have the Clan Jetties in Weld Quay that have physically survived, however, their social-cultural mechanisms have long been reconstituted. Among the remaining jetties, only the Chew Jetty continues to have any clan-related activity – the once a year annual worship of its Temple Deity and “Tee Kong” (God of Heaven or Sky-God ). The event take place on the 9th of Chinese New Year (Lunar Calendar) annually. This distinctive and grand event attracts throngs of people to Chew Jetty to enjoy lion dance and , dragon dances.. On that day, resident place the worship food on the long altar table for praying.
Recent Comments